Bonhams Offers Rare 1935 Patek Philippe Ref.96 "Birks Ellis" Double Signed Steel Wristwatch
A Rare Piece of Horological History
Bonhams is presenting a remarkable timepiece that represents a fascinating chapter in watchmaking history: a Patek Philippe Reference 96 wristwatch with rare "Birks Ellis" double signing. This stainless steel manual wind watch, sold on August 20th, 1935, offers collectors a unique opportunity to acquire a piece with documented provenance and exceptional rarity.
Historical Significance
The Reference 96 holds a special place in Patek Philippe's history as one of the earliest and most iconic dress watch designs. Introduced in the 1930s, the Ref.96 established the clean, elegant aesthetic that would define the brand for decades. What makes this particular example extraordinary is the "Birks Ellis" double signature on the case, dial, and movement.
Birks Ellis Ltd was a prestigious Canadian jewelry and watch retailer, and watches bearing their signature alongside Patek Philippe's are exceptionally rare. Double-signed watches from this era represent a unique intersection of Swiss craftsmanship and retail history, making them highly sought after by collectors worldwide.
Technical Specifications
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Reference | 96 |
| Date Sold | August 20th, 1935 |
| Movement | 13-jewel manual wind |
| Adjustments | Five positions, heat and cold isochronism |
| Certification | Seal of Geneva |
| Dial | Two-tone silvered sector dial |
| Case | Polished tonneau form, stainless steel |
| Case Size | 30mm |
| Movement Number | No.180746 |
| Case Number | No.611806 |
| Accompaniments | Extract from the Archives |
Design Details
The watch features a sophisticated two-tone silvered sector dial with black Arabic quarter numerals and black baton hour markers. The black outer 1/5th second division track adds visual complexity while maintaining excellent legibility. Black leaf hands sweep across the dial, complemented by a black centre seconds hand that provides precise timekeeping.
The movement represents the pinnacle of 1930s watchmaking technology, featuring a snail cam regulator and bi-metallic balance wheel. The Seal of Geneva certification confirms the movement's quality and adherence to the strictest standards of Swiss watchmaking excellence.
Collectibility and Market Context
Double-signed watches from prestigious retailers have experienced significant appreciation in the collector's market. The combination of Patek Philippe's legendary craftsmanship with the Birks Ellis retail provenance creates a timepiece of exceptional historical importance. Watches with documented retailer signatures from this era are increasingly difficult to source, making this offering particularly noteworthy.
According to Bonhams, the watch comes with an Extract from the Archives, providing official documentation of its production and original specifications. This provenance documentation is essential for collectors seeking verified examples of vintage Patek Philippe timepieces.
Understanding Vintage Patek Philippe Movements
For those interested in the technical aspects of vintage watch movements, our comprehensive movement guide provides insights into mechanical watch technology. While the guide focuses on modern movements, understanding the evolution of watchmaking helps appreciate the significance of early Patek Philippe calibers like the one found in this Ref.96.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does "double signed" mean in watch collecting?
A double-signed watch bears the signatures of both the manufacturer and a retailer on the dial, case, or movement. In this case, the watch is signed by both Patek Philippe (the maker) and Birks Ellis (the retailer). Double signatures are rare and typically add significant value and historical interest to a timepiece.
Why is the Reference 96 important to Patek Philippe?
The Reference 96 was one of Patek Philippe's earliest wristwatch designs, introducing the classic round case shape and clean dial layout that would become synonymous with the brand. It established the design language that continues to influence Patek Philippe's modern collections.
What is the Seal of Geneva?
The Seal of Geneva (Poinçon de Genève) is a prestigious certification for watch movements made in the Canton of Geneva. It guarantees exceptional quality in finishing, decoration, and reliability. Watches bearing this seal represent the highest standards of Swiss watchmaking excellence.
According to Bonhams, this Patek Philippe Ref.96 Birks Ellis wristwatch represents an exceptional opportunity for collectors seeking historically significant timepieces with documented provenance and rare double signing.