Bonhams Presents Rare Patek Philippe Ref. 96 'Birks Ellis' Double Signed Stainless Steel Wristwatch from 1935

Bonhams has announced a standout lot in its upcoming auction: a rare Patek Philippe Ref. 96 stainless steel manual wind wristwatch, double signed "Birks Ellis", and originally sold on August 20, 1935. The piece represents a fascinating chapter in the history of retailer-signed watches and the enduring legacy of Patek Philippe's earliest wristwatch references.

Auction Lot Overview

According to www.bonhams.com, the watch is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives, providing official confirmation from Patek Philippe of its original specifications and sale date. This provenance documentation significantly enhances the collectibility and historical value of the piece.

The Significance of Double Signing

Double-signed watches — pieces bearing both the manufacturer's and the retailer's name on the dial — were a common practice in the early-to-mid 20th century. Prominent jewelers and watch retailers would commission watches from Swiss manufacturers, having their own name placed on the dial alongside or in place of the brand name. Birks-Ellis Ltd was a notable jeweler, and the double signing adds a layer of historical interest and rarity that collectors prize highly.

The Ref. 96 itself holds a special place in Patek Philippe's history as one of the brand's earliest wristwatch references. Introduced in the 1930s, the Ref. 96 established the template for dress watches that would define Patek Philippe for decades to come. The tonneau-shaped case, manually wound movement, and restrained dial design are hallmarks of the golden age of watchmaking.

Movement and Craftsmanship

The 13-jewel manual wind movement is decorated with the Seal of Geneva (Poinçon de Genève), one of the most prestigious certifications in Swiss watchmaking. The seal guarantees the highest standards of finishing, decoration, and functional reliability. The movement is adjusted to five positions, a testament to the precision engineering of Patek Philippe in the 1930s.

Additional movement features include heat and cold isochronism adjustments, a snail cam regulator, and a bimetallic balance — all indicators of a high-grade movement built for accurate timekeeping across a range of conditions.

Why This Watch Matters for Collectors

The combination of a Patek Philippe reference, a double-signed dial, stainless steel case construction, and official Archive documentation makes this lot exceptionally rare. Stainless steel cases from this era are significantly rarer than gold equivalents, as steel was considered less prestigious at the time and fewer examples were produced.

For those building a watch collection, understanding movement quality and case materials is fundamental. Our guides on NH35 vs NH36 vs NH34 Movement Guide and Water Resistance Testing Seiko Mods cover the essential technical knowledge for evaluating any watch, from vintage pieces to modern builds.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is an Extract from the Archives?
A: An Extract from the Archives is an official document provided by Patek Philippe that confirms the original specifications, sale date, and authenticity of a watch. It is considered essential provenance for vintage Patek Philippe pieces.

Q: Why is the Ref. 96 considered historically important?
A: The Ref. 96 was one of Patek Philippe's first dedicated wristwatch references and established the design language for dress watches that the brand is still known for today. It is regarded as a foundational piece in the history of luxury watchmaking.

Q: What does "double signed" mean on a watch dial?
A: "Double signed" means the dial bears both the manufacturer's name and a retailer's name. This was common in the early 20th century when retailers would commission watches from Swiss manufacturers and have their own branding placed on the dial. Double-signed examples are generally rarer and more collectible than single-signed versions.

Source: According to www.bonhams.com