Bulgari Debuts New BVF100 Caliber in Octo Finissimo Automatic 37mm
Bulgari has officially unveiled the all-new in-house Caliber BVF100, a complete redesign of its ultra-thin automatic movement, debuting inside the long-awaited Octo Finissimo Automatic 37mm. The announcement was made at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026, marking a significant milestone for the Italian-Swiss maison's mechanical watchmaking ambitions.
BVF100: A Ground-Up Redesign
The new BVF100 replaces the BVL138 that has powered the 40mm Octo Finissimo since 2017. Despite its narrower dimensions, the movement achieves a 72-hour power reserve — up from the previous 60 hours — through careful re-engineering of the mainspring barrel and gear train. The movement measures just 2.35mm thick and 31mm wide, with a total volume of 1,774 cubic millimeters compared to the BVL138's 2,268 cubic millimeters.
According to Bulgari, the BVF100 comprises 176 components and 31 jewels, operating at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vph). The caliber features several notable innovations that set it apart from its predecessor and competitors in the ultra-thin segment.
Key Technical Specifications
| Specification | BVF100 (New) | BVL138 (Previous) |
|---|---|---|
| Power Reserve | 72 hours | 60 hours |
| Thickness | 2.35mm | 2.23mm |
| Diameter | 31mm | 36.8mm |
| Components | 176 | 189 |
| Jewels | 31 | 25 |
| Frequency | 3 Hz | 3 Hz |
| Volume | 1,774 mm³ | 2,268 mm³ |
Innovative 30-Degree Bevel Finishing
One of the most striking innovations in the BVF100 is its 30-degree bevel finishing on the edges of the main plates and bridges. Traditionally, this finishing is executed at 45 degrees — a perfect diagonal between the horizontal plane and vertical edge. By reducing the angle to 30 degrees, Bulgari creates a flatter, wider edge that catches more light and produces a more visually dynamic appearance on the movement.
The BVF100 also debuts radiating Geneva stripes that emanate from the center of the balance wheel, rather than the conventional parallel pattern. Additionally, the movement features octagonal screw heads — a design choice that serves both aesthetic and practical purposes, as the shape provides a slip-free grip for watchmakers during assembly and servicing.
Refined Keyless Works and Serviceability
Bulgari's engineers also redesigned the keyless works — the system of components around the crown that controls winding and time-setting functions. The spring in the new keyless works is crafted from a single component rather than two, improving refinement, durability, and ease of service. The new ratchet wheel design and more easily removable winding train further enhance serviceability.
The crown itself receives an update: the cabochon is now held in place by the crown sleeve, allowing it to be replaced independently without requiring a complete crown assembly — a practical improvement for after-sales service.
The 37mm Octo Finissimo Collection
The BVF100 debuts in four versions of the Octo Finissimo Automatic 37mm. The entry-level models are in titanium — one with full sandblasted finishing (Ref. 104089) and another combining polished and brushed surfaces (Ref. 104351). An 18k yellow gold variant (Ref. 104120) and a minute repeater version (Ref. 104250) round out the collection.
Pricing ranges from CHF 15,100 for the sandblasted titanium to CHF 161,000 for the minute repeater. According to Bulgari, the 37mm size was chosen after extensive prototyping to achieve optimal proportions without compromising the collection's distinctive angular design language.
Internal Links
- Learn more about understanding watch movements and caliber specifications.
- Read our guide on ultra-thin watches and what makes them technically challenging.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the power reserve of the new Bulgari BVF100 movement?
The BVF100 offers a 72-hour power reserve, an improvement of 12 hours over the previous BVL138 caliber.
How thick is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic 37mm?
The 37mm Octo Finissimo Automatic features a movement that is 2.35mm thick, contributing to the watch's ultra-slim profile on the wrist.
What makes the 30-degree bevel finishing unique?
The 30-degree angle creates a wider, flatter edge on the movement's bridges and plates compared to the traditional 45-degree bevel, resulting in greater light reflection and a more distinctive visual appearance.
Source: According to aBlogtoWatch and Bulgari official press materials, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026.