Patek Philippe Cubitus: The Brand's First New Collection in 25 Years

Patek Philippe Cubitus: A New Chapter in Luxury Sports Watchmaking

In October 2024, Patek Philippe made headlines with the launch of the Cubitus — the brand's first entirely new watch collection in 25 years. Last launched in 1997, the Aquanaut was the last time Patek introduced a completely new line for men. The Cubitus arrives as a square-shaped luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, immediately drawing comparisons to the iconic Nautilus.

The Design: A Square Take on the Nautilus

The Cubitus features a 45mm diagonal square case with rounded corners — essentially a flattened, angular reinterpretation of the Nautilus's iconic porthole silhouette. The case retains the classic two-part construction (back/caseband and bezel) pioneered by the original 1976 Nautilus. Lateral "ears" reminiscent of the Nautilus's hinges have been straightened and broadened, creating a harder, more modern aesthetic.

Despite the 45mm diagonal measurement, the actual dimensions tell a different story: the watch measures 44.5mm wide (including crown), 44.9mm lug-to-lug, and just 8.3mm thick — virtually identical to the Nautilus 5711A. This means the Cubitus wears much closer to a Nautilus than the numbers suggest.

Three Launch References

Patek introduced three initial models:

• Ref. 5821/1A-001 — Stainless steel with olive green dial. The entry point at $41,243 USD / CHF 35,000.
• Ref. 5821/1AR-001 — Stainless steel and 18K rose gold with blue dial. Priced at $61,275 USD.
• Ref. 5822P-001 — Platinum with asymmetric dial featuring big date, day, and moonphase. Top of the line at $88,378 USD.

Movement: A Story of Familiarity and Innovation

The three-hand models (5821/1A and 5821/1AR) are powered by the in-house Calibre 26-330 S C, which has appeared in the Nautilus, Aquanaut, and Calatrava lines. It offers 35-45 hours of power reserve and 28,800 bph. The top-tier platinum 5822P uses the new Calibre 240 PS CI J LU, featuring six new patents for instantaneous jumping of its day, date, and moonphase complications — showcasing genuine technical advancement beyond mere aesthetics.

The Bracelet: Familiar Territory

In a fascinating design choice, the Cubitus uses a bracelet visually identical to the classic Nautilus bracelet — the same rounded H-link design with polished center links. This creates a deliberate tension between the angular case and the flowing bracelet, an intentional contrast that Patek Philippe believes adds to the watch's distinctive character.

Reception: Polarizing but Significant

The Cubitus has generated perhaps the most polarized reactions in recent Patek Philippe history, comparable to the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 launch in 2019. Critics note its visual similarity to the Nautilus and question whether it offers enough differentiation. Supporters praise its comfort, finishing quality, and the boldness of releasing a square watch in a market dominated by round cases.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Cubitus a replacement for the Nautilus?

No. Patek Philippe positions the Cubitus as a complementary collection alongside the Nautilus and Aquanaut. It fills the gap left by the discontinued steel Nautilus 5711A but serves a distinct purpose with its contemporary, angular design language.

How does the Cubitus compare to the Santos de Cartier?

Both are square-shaped luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets. The Cubitus (44.5mm width, 8.3mm thick) is smaller than the Cartier Santos Large (39.8mm width, 9.5mm thick) in key dimensions, making it surprisingly compact on the wrist.

Will smaller versions be available?

Patek Philippe has not announced smaller versions, but industry observers expect the brand to eventually introduce a mid-size Cubitus, following the pattern established with the Nautilus (which offered 35mm and 38mm variants).

Sources: aBlogtoWatch (ablogtowatch.com), Monochrome Watches (monochrome-watches.com)