Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G: Denim Blue in White Gold
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G: Denim Blue in White Gold
In April 2024, Patek Philippe released a new white gold reference of its popular Aquanaut Travel Time with a greyish-blue "denim" dial and matching rubber strap. The introduction came as bittersweet news for collectors, as it followed the discontinuation of the stainless steel 5164A earlier in the year.
The Aquanaut Legacy
Introduced in 1997, the Aquanaut proved that there was life beyond the mythical Nautilus sports watch. Sportier and more casual than its predecessor, the Aquanaut was conceived as a multipurpose sports watch featuring a textured tropical rubber strap echoing the embossed pattern of the dial. In 2011, Patek fitted the Aquanaut with its first complication—the Travel Time GMT function.
Practical GMT Functionality
The Travel Time complication offers genuine utility for frequent travellers. The second time zone (home time) is indicated by an additional skeletonised hour hand, while the date sub-dial at 6 o'clock is indexed to local time. Two day/night indicators for local and home time ensure clarity at a glance.
One of the most user-friendly features is the pair of pushers on the left case flank, allowing the local hour hand to be adjusted in one-hour increments forwards or backwards without affecting the running seconds.
Technical Specifications
| Specification | Detail |
|---|---|
| Case | 40.8mm x 10.2mm, 18k White Gold |
| Dial | Grey-blue opaline with embossed Aquanaut pattern |
| Movement | Calibre 26-330 S C FUS, Automatic |
| Power Reserve | 35-45 hours |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters |
| Strap | Grey-blue composite rubber with white gold fold-over clasp |
| Price | EUR 62,600 (incl. tax) |
The Denim Blue Aesthetic
The opaline grey-blue dial displays the signature embossed grid-like Aquanaut pattern that continues on the integrated composite rubber strap. The colour is reminiscent of the shade used on the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar 5261R of 2023. White gold applied numerals and local hour, minute, and date hands are treated with white luminescent coating for excellent legibility.
The characteristic rounded octagonal bezel features vertical satin-brushed finish with a wide polished bevel, finishings replicated throughout the case. Despite its 30m water resistance—a point of debate among enthusiasts—the screw-down crown and robust construction suggest the watch is capable of more.
Market Position
With the discontinuation of the stainless steel 5164A and the steel bracelet version of the Aquanaut 5167A, Patek Philippe appears to be reserving stainless steel for the Nautilus collection while positioning the Aquanaut with rubber straps exclusively. This strategy differentiates the two collections while maintaining the Aquanaut's sporty identity.
The new white gold 5164G sits alongside the existing rose gold 5164R, offering collectors a choice between warm and cool precious metal tones for this practical GMT watch.
Frequently Asked Questions
- What is the Travel Time complication? The Travel Time is Patek Philippe's GMT function, displaying two time zones with separate hour hands and day/night indicators.
- Can the local time be adjusted easily? Yes, pushers on the left case flank allow one-hour increments forward or backward without stopping the movement.
- Is the 5164G available on a bracelet? No, the Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G comes exclusively on the grey-blue composite rubber strap.
According to Monochrome Watches, the white gold Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G is "a handsome addition to the family" that brings sophistication to the pragmatic GMT travel watch segment.
For travellers who appreciate fine timepieces, explore our guide to the best travel watches or learn about how GMT watches work.