Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968R: Rose Gold Meets Brown in a Flyback Stunner
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968R: Rose Gold and Brown
Patek Philippe has added a luxurious rose gold version to the Aquanaut Chronograph collection with the reference 5968R-001. This gold-and-brown combination brings warm, rich tones to the sporty flyback chronograph, marking the fourth version of the Aquanaut Chronograph since its introduction in 2018.
The Aquanaut Chronograph: A Brief History
The Aquanaut was introduced in 1997 as a sportier, more casual alternative to the Nautilus, featuring a rubber strap and embossed dial pattern. For over two decades, the collection offered only time-and-date models until 2018, when the stainless steel Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A debuted at Baselworld. Three years later, two white gold models joined the lineup, and now the rose gold 5968R completes the precious metal trilogy.
As the rose gold Aquanaut Chronograph 5968R is the fourth version, it doesn't introduce revolutionary changes. Instead, it brings a new material and color combination to a proven design — similar to how the time-and-date Aquanaut Ref. 5167R-001 added warmth to the collection.
Case, Dial, and Design
The octagonal bezel case measures 42.2mm from 10 to 4 o'clock, with an 11.9mm thickness. Polished and satin finishes enhance the luxurious look while complementing the sporty feel of this 120m water-resistant watch. On the crown side, the pusher at 2 o'clock starts and stops the chronograph, while the 4 o'clock pusher handles reset and flyback functions.
The dial features the familiar chocolate-bar-like Aquanaut pattern in brown with a black-gradient rim. Depending on lighting, it appears rich chocolate or almost black — a classic gold-and-brown theme previously applied to the Nautilus 5711/1R. Applied rose gold and Super-LumiNova coated numerals and hour markers ensure excellent readability day or night.
Flyback Chronograph Movement
Turn the watch around and the exhibition caseback reveals the CH 28-520 C self-winding flyback chronograph calibre. This 21k gold rotor-decorated movement features a Gyromax balance, Spiromax balance spring, and carries the Patek Philippe Seal, guaranteeing accuracy within -3/+2 seconds per day. The column-wheel-equipped movement beats at 28,800 vibrations/hour and provides 45 to 55 hours of power reserve.
The 60-minute chronograph counter at 6 o'clock mirrors the octagonal bezel shape, with a minutes track graduated to 1/4 second precision. Thanks to the vertical disc clutch, the central chronograph hand can run continuously for non-stop seconds display.
| Specification | Detail |
|---|---|
| Case | 42.2mm x 11.9mm - 18k rose gold, polished and satin |
| Dial | Sunburst brown with black rim, chequerboard pattern |
| Movement | Calibre CH 28-520 C - automatic flyback chronograph |
| Power Reserve | 45-55 hours |
| Water Resistance | 120 meters |
| Reference | 5968R-001 |
| Price | EUR 75,100 |
Secondary Market Premium
While the retail price sits at EUR 75,100, secondary market listings for the Aquanaut Chronograph 5968R have reportedly started at over EUR 200,000 — a testament to the extreme demand for Patek Philippe sports chronographs and the limited availability at authorized dealers.
Frequently Asked Questions
How does the Aquanaut Chronograph compare to the Nautilus Chronograph?
Both share the CH 28-520 C movement and flyback function, but the Aquanaut features a rubber strap and more casual aesthetic, while the Nautilus offers an integrated bracelet and dressier appearance. The Aquanaut Chronograph is slightly larger at 42.2mm vs 40.5mm.
What is a flyback chronograph?
A flyback chronograph allows the user to reset and restart the chronograph with a single press of the reset button, without stopping it first. This is useful for timing consecutive events without losing time between measurements.
Is the 120m water resistance suitable for swimming?
Yes, the Aquanaut Chronograph's 120m water resistance makes it suitable for swimming and recreational water activities, though it is not a dedicated diving watch.
According to Monochrome Watches, the Aquanaut was initially ridiculed as a "Nautilus Junior" but has evolved into a similarly distinguished and highly sought-after collection with its own identity.
Discover more about Patek Philippe Chronograph Complications or compare The Complete Aquanaut Collection.