Omega Speedmaster 38mm Gets Major Design Update Closer to Moonwatch Roots
Omega has announced a significant design overhaul for the Speedmaster 38mm collection, bringing the compact chronograph line visually closer to the iconic Moonwatch. The update, which first appeared on the Speedmaster 38mm Milano Cortina 2026 edition, has now been applied across seven new references.
Key Design Changes
The most noticeable revision is the replacement of the oval subdials with conventional round registers. The previous oval design, while distinctive, created a visual disconnect from the broader Speedmaster family. Omega has also streamlined the dial text and introduced a broader tachymeter bezel insert that eliminates the notches found on earlier 38mm models.
Perhaps most significant for enthusiasts is the restoration of the "Dot Over Ninety" marking on the tachymeter scale — a detail that has long been cherished by Speedmaster collectors as a hallmark of the original Moonwatch design language.
Technical Specifications
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Case Size | 38mm × 14.75mm |
| Movement | Co-Axial Calibres 3330 or 3332 |
| Power Reserve | 52 hours |
| Water Resistance | 50 meters |
| Bracelet | Five-link Moonwatch-style with micro-adjustment |
The collection is split between two self-winding Co-Axial calibres. Six references use the Calibre 3330 with a date at six o'clock, while the black dial model alone features the Calibre 3332 that omits the date entirely — making it the most overtly Moonwatch-like of the seven.
Model Range and Pricing
- Steel with Black Dial: CHF 5,100 — The most traditional option with matte black varnished dial and black aluminium bezel
- Steel with White/Blue Dial: CHF 5,500 — Features blue ceramic bezel with white enamel tachymeter scale
- Steel with Silver Dial: CHF 5,200 — Opaline silvery PVD dial with Sedna Gold PVD accents
- Bi-color Models: CHF 9,100 — Available in Moonshine Gold or Sedna Gold combinations
- Diamond-set Models: CHF 9,600 – CHF 10,200 — Feature 52 diamonds totaling 1.53 carats
Why This Matters
According to Revolution Watch, this update represents "the update that enthusiasts with smaller wrists did not quite know they were waiting for." The redesign effectively bridges the gap between the compact 38mm format and the legendary Moonwatch aesthetic that has defined Omega's chronograph legacy since 1957.
While the movements are not Master Chronometer certified, both calibres feature silicon hairsprings that are genuinely non-magnetic — providing practical resistance to the magnetic fields encountered in everyday life.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the new Speedmaster 38mm Master Chronometer certified?
No, the Calibre 3330 and 3332 are not Master Chronometer certified. However, they feature silicon hairsprings that provide effective magnetic resistance.
What is the "Dot Over Ninety" feature?
The Dot Over Ninety is a placement of the dot marker above the "90" on the tachymeter scale, rather than beside it. This detail is found on vintage Speedmaster references and is considered a mark of authenticity by collectors.
When will these watches be available?
The new Speedmaster 38mm collection is available now through Omega boutiques and authorized retailers worldwide.
According to Revolution Watch, the steel models offer "a superbly viable means of entry into the Speedmaster family" — a sentiment that underscores Omega's strategy of expanding the Speedmaster's appeal while maintaining its iconic design DNA.
For more information about the Speedmaster collection, visit our Complete Speedmaster Buying Guide or explore the History of Omega Movements.