Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary: Original Design Meets Modern UNICO 2 Technology
Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary: How the Watch That Changed Everything Evolved
Two decades after Jean-Claude Biver transformed a struggling Swiss brand into an LVMH powerhouse, Hublot has released the Big Bang 20th Anniversary collection. These limited-edition watches bridge the gap between the original 2005 design and today's UNICO-powered technology — offering collectors a chance to own the look that changed the luxury watch industry.
The Original Big Bang: A Design Revolution
In 2005, designer Yvan Arpa created the original Big Bang under Biver's creative direction. The watch was large, hyper-masculine, and built around a concept Biver later named "The Art of Fusion" — stacking multiple materials together to create visual contrast and tactile variety. The original retailed for approximately $10,000 in steel, an aggressive price point that disrupted the market.
The modular construction allowed Hublot to swap colors and materials endlessly, creating dozens of variations from a single platform. This approach — now widely copied across the industry — enabled the brand to connect the Big Bang to marketing campaigns, ambassador agreements, and limited editions with unprecedented flexibility.
Then vs. Now: Key Evolutionary Changes
The 20th Anniversary models are not simple reissues — they are hybridized watches that merge the original aesthetic with modern Hublot technology. Here are the most significant differences between the 2005 originals and the 2025 anniversary editions:
| Feature | 2005 Original | 2025 Anniversary |
|---|---|---|
| Case Diameter | 44mm | 43mm |
| Base Material | Steel (then titanium) | Titanium or King Gold |
| Movement | ETA/Sellita Chronograph | UNICO 2 Manufacture |
| Chronograph Registers | 3 subdials (12-hour timing) | 2 subdials (60-minute timing) |
| Strap System | Screw-in spring bars | One Click quick-change |
| Lume | Hands only | Hands + hour markers |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph | 28,800 vph (4 Hz) |
| Power Reserve | ~42 hours | 72 hours |
| Silicon Regulation | No | Yes |
The UNICO 2: A Manufacture Movement Upgrade
The most significant upgrade is the replacement of the ETA-based chronograph with Hublot's in-house UNICO 2 automatic movement. This caliber operates at 4 Hz with a 72-hour power reserve and features a silicon-based regulation system for improved accuracy. The chronograph is column-wheel controlled with flyback functionality, and a date window sits between 4 and 5 o'clock.
The move from three to two chronograph subdials reduces maximum timing capacity from 12 hours to 60 minutes, but in practice this is a minor compromise. The larger, more detailed dial design with applied luminous hour markers arguably improves everyday legibility.
Limited Edition Pricing
| Model | Material | Limitation | Price (USD) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 431.NM.1337.RX | Titanium + Black Ceramic | 500 pieces | $20,800 |
| 431.OM.1338.RX | King Gold + Black Ceramic | 250 pieces | $38,400 |
Both models feature 43mm cases with black ceramic bezels bearing an exterior knurled texture. The exposed "H" titanium screws and composite resin side flanks maintain the original Big Bang's distinctive silhouette. A black rubber strap with fold-over deployant clasp — a feature first popularized by the Big Bang and widely copied across the industry — completes the package.
Context: Hublot's "Wilderness Era"
According to aBlogtoWatch, the 20th Anniversary watches arrive during what the publication describes as Hublot's "wilderness era" — a period of transition under new CEO Julien Tornare that has seen fewer breakout designs. The anniversary models serve as a reminder of the brand's most successful creative period while pointing toward future directions. The watches offer modern UNICO technology in the silhouette that made Hublot famous.
FAQ
Can I still buy an original 2005 Big Bang?
Yes, pre-owned examples of the original Big Bang 44 are widely available on the secondary market, often at attractive prices. The original ETA-based models were produced in larger quantities and lack the in-house UNICO movement, making them a more affordable entry point into Hublot ownership. However, the 2025 anniversary models offer significant technical improvements including the manufacture movement, One Click strap system, and improved luminant application.
What is Hublot King Gold?
King Gold is Hublot's proprietary rose gold alloy, formulated to maintain a warm, rich hue that resists fading over time. The alloy is composed of gold mixed with platinum and copper, creating a color that is distinctly warmer than standard rose gold while offering enhanced durability. It is used across Hublot's premium case materials.
Why did Hublot reduce the chronograph subdials from three to two?
The UNICO 2 movement uses a two-register chronograph layout, which reduces maximum timing capacity from 12 hours to 60 minutes. This design choice allowed Hublot to create a thinner movement (1.3mm slimmer than the original UNICO) while incorporating the modular escapement system and improved power reserve. Most collectors rarely need to time events beyond 60 minutes, making this a practical trade-off.
Sources: According to aBlogtoWatch (April 8, 2025) and Monochrome Watches (April 5, 2025).
For more on Hublot's history, explore our feature on the Art of Fusion: Hublot's design philosophy explained. See our guide to buying pre-owned luxury watches for collectors exploring the secondary market.