The Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806: Appreciating the Power of Gentle Evolution

How the Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 Became Aviation's Defining Chronograph

Among collectors of vintage chronographs, few references carry the same weight as the Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806. Produced from 1959 through the mid-1970s, the Ref. 806 served as the face of the Navitimer line during what many enthusiasts consider the golden age of chronographs. Its story is one of subtle, purposeful evolution — and the example shown here, manufactured circa 1970, illustrates why later iterations can be just as compelling as their earlier counterparts.

The Case: A Study in Classic Proportions

At 41mm in diameter, the Ref. 806 offers a more restrained presence on the wrist compared to modern Navitimer iterations. The stainless steel case features long, tapering lugs with flaring chamfers and piston-style pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock — hallmarks of midcentury chronograph design.

The most significant evolutionary element is the gear-toothed bezel edge, which replaced the earlier polished, beaded design. This updated bezel proved far easier to grip and operate, and its design remains the standard for the Navitimer line to this day. It's a subtle change, but one that fundamentally improved the user experience of the slide-rule calculation tool.

The Dial: "Big Eyes" and the Twin Jet Logo

Perhaps the most visually distinctive aspect of later Ref. 806 models is the "Big Eyes" dial concept, introduced in 1968. Each of the three sub-dial registers was increased by a full millimeter in diameter, giving the watch a more function-forward, chronograph-heavy appearance. In the minute fractions of watch design, a one-millimeter shift created a meaningfully different visual character.

The circa-1970 example also features Breitling's short-lived "twin jet" logo, which replaced the AOPA winged-shield emblem used on most Navitimer models until 1965. While this logo variant did not survive into the modern era, it has become one of the most sought-after features among vintage Breitling collectors — precisely because of its discontinuity.

Technical Specifications

Why Evolution Matters More Than Revolution

The Ref. 806's story teaches an important lesson about watch design: the most enduring designs often achieve their power not through radical reinvention, but through patient, incremental refinement. Each change — the gear-toothed bezel, the larger sub-dials, the simplified hour markers — served a functional purpose while preserving the core identity that made the Navitimer unmistakable.

This philosophy of gentle evolution continues to guide the modern Navitimer line. For a look at the latest developments, visit our Navitimer Buyer's Guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many Ref. 806 models were produced?
Exact production numbers are unknown, but the Ref. 806 was produced in significant quantities from 1959 through the mid-1970s. Movements varied across the production run, including the Valjoux 72, Venus 178, and Valjoux 7736.

What makes the "twin jet" logo so desirable?
The twin jet logo was used only during a brief period in the late 1960s and early 1970s. Its discontinuity from the modern Breitling brand identity makes it a rare and distinctive feature that collectors prize for its historical significance.

How does the 41mm Ref. 806 wear compared to modern Navitimers?
The 41mm Ref. 806 wears considerably smaller than modern 43mm and 46mm Navitimers. Its proportions are more aligned with contemporary tastes for medium-sized watches, making it surprisingly wearable by today's standards.

Source

Sources: aBlogtoWatch (December 2, 2024); Bob's Watches. All images sourced from aBlogtoWatch.