New Independent Watchmaker Alexandre Martin Launches Debut Watch "1965"

A 28-Year-Old Belgian Watchmaker Makes His Mark

The independent watchmaking scene continues to expand with the launch of Alexandre Martin, a 28-year-old Belgian who has just opened his workshop in Morges, Switzerland. His debut timepiece, named "1965" after his father's birth year, is an elegant three-hand watch that belies the young watchmaker's ambition to specialize in complex complications.

According to Monochrome Watches, Martin developed a passion for watchmaking at just 12 years old. Growing up in an environment where craftsmanship was valued - his father being a restorer of antique furniture - led him to study at the IATA school in Namur, where his horological journey began.

A Career Built on Determination

Martin's path to independence was marked by persistence. After graduating, he moved to Switzerland with the explicit goal of becoming a complications specialist. He knocked on many doors and faced numerous rejections before the late Pierre Favre of MHC gave him his chance.

Following MHC's bankruptcy, Martin continued his career at Greubel Forsey, where he worked on the Hand-Made project. He then joined Petermann Bédat, contributing to the production of their split-seconds chronograph. These experiences provided invaluable expertise in high-end complications.

A Different Approach to Launching

Unlike many contemporary independent watchmakers who launch with "subscription" models - presenting designs, taking pre-orders, and only then developing the watch - Martin chose a different path. He wanted to present something tangible, a finished watch in which he could place absolute confidence.

For this reason, he started with an existing proven base: the CYMA 586 movement. The mainplate and gear train were kept but beautifully refinished and modified. Other components like bridges were manufactured specifically, while the balance wheel and Breguet hairspring were remade. The click mechanism now features a mobile system.

Design and Specifications

The result is a refined dress watch with a 38mm stainless steel case measuring just 9.35mm in thickness. The dial comprises three sections, including a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock crafted from enamel in Anita Porchet's workshops.

Key design elements include:

• Hour Markers: White gold, designed to appear suspended above the dial
• Hands: Hand-polished steel, inspired by high mountain gear
• Dial Construction: Three-part with enamel small seconds
• Movement Finishing: Hand-brushed grained finish with beautiful beveling and inward angles

The aesthetic draws inspiration from Martin's passion for mountains and activities like paragliding. Every detail holds significance, creating a watch with distinct personality while maintaining contemporary independent watchmaking codes.

Technical Specifications

Future Plans and Production

The initial series consists of 12 pieces in steel, with delivery expected to be complete within approximately 18 months. This will be followed by two additional limited editions of 12 pieces each in platinum and pink gold.

Notably, for commercial production, the entire movement assembly will be newly manufactured rather than using vintage CYMA bases. This will provide the opportunity to rework the barrel and increase power reserve beyond the original CYMA 586's 36 hours.

The Significance of New Independent Brands

Martin's launch represents a broader trend in watchmaking: young, highly skilled watchmakers establishing their own brands. As Monochrome Watches notes, there is currently "a real wave of new, young independent watchmakers launching their own brand," bringing fresh perspectives and technical excellence to the industry.

What sets Martin apart is his focus on complications from the start, even though his debut watch is a time-only model. This suggests future releases may feature more complex mechanisms, making him a watchmaker to follow closely.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why start with a time-only watch if specializing in complications?

Martin wanted to present a finished, tangible product rather than a subscription concept. Starting with a refined three-hand watch allows him to establish his brand and build confidence before tackling more complex mechanisms.

What is the significance of the name "1965"?

The watch is named after Martin's father's birth year, adding personal significance to the debut timepiece. This naming convention reflects the intimate, personal nature of independent watchmaking.

How can I learn more about Alexandre Martin watches?

Martin maintains an Instagram presence at @alexandre.martin.watches where he shares updates on his work and production progress.

Explore Independent Watchmaking

For collectors interested in the independent watchmaking scene, we recommend our comprehensive guide to independent watchmakers. Additionally, our exploration of watchmaking craftsmanship provides context for understanding the skills required to create watches like the 1965.

According to Monochrome Watches, the Alexandre Martin 1965 represents "a new high-end indie watchmaker on the scene, and an impressive first watch." The initial steel limited edition of 12 pieces is priced at CHF 65,000.